Best double length sling anchor reddit Yep, static line is probably your best option for extending toprope anchors. IF you climb above your anchor while attached to the anchor via your PAS and you fall, that is a fall factor greater than 1, possibly up to 2, depending on how far above the anchor you climb relative to the length of your PAS. If you want redundancy (slings can get worn after a while) then put an overhand knot halfway up a double length sling. Method two is using two quickdraws and double backing them (clipping them in opposite directions) to yourself and the anchor. If the pieces are far from each other, I might build a mini anchor (sliding X) on 2 of the pieces w/ a double length sling to extend them a 2 double-length nylon slings 4 single-length nylon slings several non lockers 6 lockers a rope! Climbing Anchors by John Long, or any other anchor-building book This gear will allow you to utilize natural features to build top-rope anchors. You don't have to fall fifty feet Some areas may have bolted anchors that are easily accessible, in which case you'll just need slings and some more biners. What type of climbing will you be doing? For me, I go with a pre-built 120cm sling quad anchor for anything bolted, 120cm sling for building trad anchors, and a Double-length slings can be useful for equalizing anchors if the situation warrants, and are the perfect length to use as personal tether to a climbing or rappel anchor if you do not use a personal anchor system instead. If I can double wrap then I will. A basket has 4 "lengths" of nylon sling supporting the load, so you can pretty much double the load it is holding. The sewn label and ease of unraveling an alpine draw View community ranking In the Top 5% of largest communities on Reddit. Cowtail the sling (120cm', or whatever length you prefer)to yourself via belay loop and attach the carabiner to the anchor point. Is it as safe to weight any knotted segment as it is the ends? You should invest in both. Also often I do a combo. My rappelling method is as such: Girth hitch one side of double length sling to your harness tie-in points, put an overhand knot in about half-way up, and put a locker at the very end of the sling to attach yourself to chains View community ranking In the Top 1% of largest communities on Reddit. Imposible to know if you found the best location for the anchor View community ranking In the Top 5% of largest communities on Reddit. Extra long extension or anchors. I recently bought a cordelette so I rarely use the 10 foot webbing anymore but they were handy if anchors were set back slightly and a double length sling wasn't enough. Eg. And yes we are scared of falling. For top roping, you can buy about 40 ft. If I buy a 20ft length at 7mm would that be enough? I am not doing Posted by u/anothermonth - 4 votes and 34 comments Or use double length slings in tandem? I typically use double slings too, but use a munter + locker at the master point to reduce the amount of material needed. For situations that will put a lot of abuse on gear, like top rope anchors or multi-pitch anchors, I like cordelette or tied nylon runners. On the up, the locker doubles as the locker for my ATC in guide mode, the prusik can double as an extra sling if I run out. 5mm. I do like having a few slings when sport climbing to extend wandering bolts and reduce rope drag. rope (or sling) in service. For an anchor, all I have is my trusty double-length sling. The D:d ratio comments above are valid, but are I was out doing a private class with a guide and we were talking about something when I said, “Oh yeah, and maybe you could bring a quad for that. However, I personally prefer a quad length 10cm sling over my cordelette 95% of the time for building anchors because it is lighter and less bulky. Any advice is welcome, assume I know my way around knots and gear and all that. At the end of the day, a $9 double-length nylon sling with some knots in it will do the same job. ” He immediately thought I was talking about a cordelette or sling anchor that people typically use for a 2 bolt anchor (doubled with limiting knots making a master point with 4 strands). The only time I would take cordelette is if I'm in a more adventurous area and I may have to cut my cord to make rap anchors on the descent. If you're just The slings you will use for a top rope anchor will typically be 120cm, while those for a sling draw would be 60cm (although you are correct in thinking that Dyneema is the best kind of sling for this purpose). All my alpine draws are dynema and my favourite piece of rack is my quad length dynema sling. But when you're only making one or two anchors a day it doesn't matter to spend 3 minutes more to The Petzl Connect- by far my favorite new piece of gear from Winter OR last week. ) give you greater extension for reducing rope drag or positioning pro; a perfect size for building two-bolt, fixed anchors, they Posted by u/WildWilly29 - 5 votes and 29 comments Dynema is amazing. Use the one you prefer. Also, any PAS or personal tether is generally girth hitched, not attached with a carabiner so you only need 2 not 3 (in some cases 1 but then you give up redundancy). Dyneema is lighter and thinner. Yes, the knots weaken the sling, but I'm not sure you'd live through a 22kn impact anyway. A simple, fully adjustable lanyard to make anchoring easier, faster, and safer. -double length sling. A Nylon for anchor slings, Dyneema (dynex) for extending pro. I'd also have the best I started carrying a 180cm (triple length) dyneema sling last season and it’s my new favorite - it’s just always exactly the right length for anything single/doubled/tripled/quadrupled and super Double or triple length slings has been go my go-to multipitch setup for 95% of gear anchors in the US for a while now. 2 live trees, at least as big around as your thigh. Both my partner and I were extending our rappels with a double length tubular sling girth hitched to our hard points, overhand on a bight for the rap device, and a tail with a locker as the tether. two pieces equalised with a sling, and rope anchor together with another Double-length slings can be useful for equalizing anchors if the situation warrants, and are the perfect length to use as personal tether to a climbing or rappel anchor if you do not use a personal anchor system instead. Based on the reading I've done, it's recommended that if you use a PAS for belaying a follower, you Posted by u/BillyIron96 - 1 vote and no comments Think of it this way: A straight pull has 2 "lengths" of nylon sling supporting load. Now me and a couple friends are getting into multipitch climbs and I want to know the best ways to build an anchor, belay, switch off, etc. The slings could be looped multiple times over the biner attached to the bolt or knotted to equalize. With rope you can tie a double bowline off on one, and the other can be whatever you want - a frictionless hitch, a Mostly rope, as i'm mostly cragging single pitch with not always close together anchor points, and more than enough rope. Now tie a knot a third of the way out. Most of the anchors/belays were at hanging or semi hanging stances. Single-length slings (60cm/24 in. Double-length slings (120cm/48 in. But Super quick to adjust to your desired length for the belay and when you're taking apart the anchor you just slide the clove off, throw your anchor on your harness and get going. Now, I should have said that the anchor on the left is a I have only had to use the two 30s together once when the hangers were removed from a set of anchors and had to sling a block that was well back from the edge of the climb. Personally, I like a double length nylon sling (like this 16mm one from DMM) tied in a sliding X configuration with two limiter knots for TR on two bomber bolts. Larry Gergich's post The home of Climbing on reddit. The slings could be doubled up if length is an issue. Holy shit it's so nice for anchors. of tubular 1" webbing and cut it into lengths to make you own double length, or even larger, tied slings. One-handed thumb adjustment to get the perfect length. The PAS for starters can be replaced with a double length sling taking the price from ~$30 to ~$9. sizing draws Usually bring 8-10 alpine shoulder length draws, 3 double length slings with carabiners over the shoulder ( for extension, anchor building, slinging Slinging rocks with slings or the rope itself is a great way to save on gear placement, as is building anchors with the rope. By putting the knot 1/3 of the length out you should have plenty of headroom to clearly weight your rappel before disconnecting from the anchors. Mammut Contact Slings for everything but double length or longer anchor setups. I've found that a combination of alpine-style anchors (tricks like clipping two pieces to the same sling) and/or using Any issues with using a (nylon or dyneema) double-length sling (sliding x with limiters) for a two-bolt anchor, either on TR (where there's no issue with rope or biners running over an edge, so no static line build needed)? Our climbing testers have put these slings to the test on giant alpine routes in the Bugaboos, huge classic multi-pitch routes in Red Rocks, and on many fun days on the rocks A knotted sling has more than enough strength to be a suitable anchor. Anchor sling length/rigging question? Hopefully gonna make it to REI tomorrow to get my primitive rig. How long should the cordelette be, and is there a "best" diameter? I have seen anywhere from 14ft to 30ft for length and that a minimum diameter is around 5. But if you're top roping all day on one anchor, the quad is the best option. On the up, Is it alright to use a knotted sling as a personal anchor system? I know daisy chains are discouraged for the obvious reasons, but is a knotted sling relatively bulletproof? I assume so, but having been surprised by counterintuitive safety hazards I figured it best to ask. Although double-length slings are most commonly used to extend pieces of protection while on lead to reduce rope drag, quadruple or even longer slings are sometimes used to I like to use a cordalette and build an anchor with 3-4 pieces and a big pre-equalized master point. As for the anchor you will need something to use as an anchor. On the way down I use a double length sling with an overhand tied somewhere below middle using the extended rappel/personal anchor combo. Gear placement is mostly for worst case scenarios, if it requires you can do shorter quick pitches, slinging a rock, belay your parnter up No need to equalise two bolts perfectly, I leave that for gear anchors where I use the Equalette-3. There are a couple of ways to do this. Just wondering how many Alpine Draws, Quick Draws, and Single-Biner slings you guys carry for normal single pitch cragging? I normally have 5 single length alpines, 1 double length alpine, and one single length alpine with lockers on my harness - no empty or single biner slings or QDs. Nylon stays strong longer and doesn't slip as much when used in a girth or clove hitch. I still carry a double length nylon for a person anchor or if I need something maybe a bit more abrasion resistant. -quad length sling. Remember that fall factor is a ratio of fall distance vs. . What's my best best for an anchor? A sliding-X would make the anchor perfectly equalized, but extensible. -Prussik cord with a locker. Beginner Sport Climbing Gear Checklist Metolius Personal Anchor System without Carabiner 1 $26. If there aren't bolted anchors available, you'll need pro to build your own. Really depends on the scenario. It would be a bad idea to fall on one, but you really shouldn't put yourself in that position. You will want to stay with the basket though. ) are a useful length—roughly 2 or 3 times longer than most quickdraws; they're a good length to wear over a shoulder or as an alpine quickdraw. I use a sling and a locking carabiner. 36 If you want to rappel you would ideally use a double length sling to extend your rappel with an autoblock backup and would use lockers as a part of that setup. scjxgx ytg vth fpepm rgug brnkib bpixmjz snr bwew fij reqz kombge tncdu hcslg ozlzzd